Sunday, November 29, 2015
Guide to traveling in Mexico - Part 1
Sunday, November 29, 2015My exchange programme in Mexico is coming to an end. As I'm writing this, I have just 11 days left to go. Through these 4 months, I'...
My exchange programme in Mexico is coming to an end. As I'm writing this, I have just 11 days left to go. Through these 4 months, I've made so many trips out to the different states. Some trips were just 2 days long, and my longest one was 9 days. I've gain so many invaluable tips and instincts as a traveller and I wish to share it with anyone who's considering a visit to Mexico. Not all my trips were made solo, but I do think that most of these tips would help a solo traveller more.
1. Language
This is so important and greatly underestimated by me when I first arrived. The previous batch of exchange students did warn us to pick up a bit of Spanish before coming, but all I did was listen to podcasts on basic Spanish, and could only remember a couple of phrases. Thank god I had the rest of the months here to interact and learn the language, because I have gain so much more from my travels when I interact with the locals.
One can probably survive with just English, or even hand gestures (I met a solo Chinese lady who spoke only Chinese and barely any English. I asked her how she got around, she said by pointing things out and making hand gestures. Wow). But had I not spoke with the locals, I would never have understood their way of life, their beliefs, their perspective of their country and foreigners.
Understanding some Spanish also helps a lot when you are getting around the town too. I had a couple of months to understand how most towns are built and how the transport system runs, but for travellers who don't have to luxury of time and money to make mistakes, knowing Spanish would be great to read signs, and ask for help from the locals. In my last 9 day solo trip, I was able to get myself out from tricky situations by asking for help, in Spanish, with the locals.
But I truly understand that this is a giant hurdle to cross, and one thing that really help was having translation apps. I found Yandex - Translate and Spanish Dict particularly helpful. Both apps works offline, so it doesn't require a data plan nor does it consume much of your phone battery. But for Yandex - Translate, one would need to download the Spanish - English package beforehand, to use it offline. Yandex is great for translating paragraphs of words, while Spanish Dict is great for one to practice and learn Spanish, with different conjugations neatly listed and vocab game.
2. Transport
Travelling between states/towns
One can probably choose between bus and flights when travelling around Mexico. But usually when the bus journey is not longer than 6 hours, it would be easier to travel to the next state by bus. The longest bus ride I've taken here is a 10 hours one from Puebla to Chiapas. I don't think I ever want to experience that again.
The main bus companies here in Mexico are ADO, AU, Estrella Blanca Group, ODO, and Mayab/Oriente. The Estrelle Blanca Group is a group of high end to second class bus companies and generally serves the central - southern regions. ODO serves the mid west regions. ADO and AU pretty much goes to all parts of Mexico, but the tickets are usually more expensive. Mayab and Oriente serves the Quintana Roo and Yucatan regions and is a cheaper option to ADO and AU.
But Quintana Roo and Yucatan is also known for their collectivo services, which is by far the cheapest option. Collectivos runs in small vans, and depending on the town, the collectivo might run more frequently than ADO/AU. Their services generally only extends to towns not located more than 3 hours apart, and typically does not run late into the night. It is a bus service generally aimed at providing the locals with a cheaper transport option, and can be an advantage to tourists.
In purchasing the bus tickets, the normal practice is to arrive at the station no more than an hour you would like to depart at and purchase it on the spot. Whenever I plan for a trip, the first step I would do, search for the costs online and find the cheapest bus company. Then, I would check the number of hours it takes to journey to the destination and plan backwards. I would also check for the departure timings online, so as to arrive at the station with just enough time to purchase the ticket and grab some snacks. However, one should note that the costs and timings might not be the most updated and changes should be anticipated. Often I would arrive at the bus station and inquire for the prices at other companies regardless, to ensure that I am getting the cheapest deal.
For travellers who can afford to pay a little more, and prefer a more comfortable ride, the most comfortable bus service I've enjoyed thus far is Futura primera. Every passenger gets a bag of snacks, a choice of beverage, an inflatable pillow and their own TV screen at their seat. No more straining to watch the shared TV screens most second class buses have.
At the bus station, it is often confusing and flustering to deal with the crowd, the doubts and directions. I would recommend every traveller to do their research like what I've mentioned above and always remember to double check all these information, price, duration and time when purchasing the tickets. Also, enquire about where to board the bus, and be there at least 15 mins before. Some buses arrives early and leaves at the stated time, while others arrives only at the stated time. In addition, the tickets usually does not provide the vehicle plate number, so it might be hard to identify which bus you are supposed to board. Always ask the officers at the gate for help when you are in doubt. It is better to be annoying and ask the same person 10 times, than to miss your bus.
When boarding, some stations will check your bags, so do look out for the queue. Luggages can also be stowed below the bus, and this is usually with the assistance of the station crew who would attach a tag to your luggage, which you will have to keep to claim it when alighting. Most importantly, check with the conductor, when to alight! Often, the places that you are travelling to might not be the final stop for the bus. Therefore, always be alert and check your offline map for your location when you know the duration for the trip is almost up. This is especially important when you're taking a overnight bus and you need to sleep.
Travelling within the town
When getting around town, the most common type of transport are local buses, taxis and metros.
Generally, I don't use much of the local buses when I'm exploring a city, cos most places can be reached by foot. But they are especially useful when I need to get to my hostel from the inter state bus stations or airport, or vice versa. Buses in Mexico are pretty chaotic for unfamiliar travellers. Usually the places they pass by would be written on the front window of the bus, and these buses can stop anywhere and pick up passengers from anywhere. However, each route generally have an informal bus stop which only the locals and driver know, and that is the hard part. When in doubt, always always ask the driver. These buses usually costs no more than $10 pesos and one has to pay when boarding. Don't worry about getting an exact change, most drivers have rows of change available just beside the steering wheel and it is common for them to find you your change while driving.
Next, taxis. Almost no taxis here run by the meter. You should always ask the driver for the price before getting into the cab, and negotiate beforehand, if you think it is too pricey. Only hop in when you have decided on the price, and make sure you have exact change for it, whenever possible. There were many times where I've met drivers who claim that they have no change for your $100 note and you end up paying more than what was quoted at the start. An alternative to taxis would be Uber. Uber is generally slightly cheaper and definitely alot safer and more comfortable than the local taxis. However, do look out for drivers who tend to drive slow to hike up more earnings, as the final cost of the trip is determined by both the distance travelled and the time taken. But not all cities have Uber running yet, but right now, they can be found in major cities like Mexico City, Guadalajara, and Puebla.
Finally, the metro. Only 2 cities in Mexico has a metro system, Mexico City and Guadalajara. I did not take the metro in Guadalajara because everywhere is so walkable, so I can only advise on Mexico City's metro system. Some locals would say that the metro is dangerous and that is true - only if you are showing off your wallet blatantly. The main danger in the metro are pickpockets and in all the stories I've heard about missing wallets, the victim always has his/her wallet slotted in their front/back pockets. Keep all valuables in your bag and carry your bag where you can see them. And if you stay alert, the metro is really the best way to get around Mexico City. This is because Mexico City is known for their horrible traffic jams. It is no joke, I was stuck in one for 3 hours when my friend drove me around. The metro cuts through the jam, and it only costs $5 pesos, regardless of the distance travelled. The signs in the station makes is really easy to change lines and often there are people selling snacks and trinkets for $10 pesos on the train, making it a shopping experience too.
1. Language
This is so important and greatly underestimated by me when I first arrived. The previous batch of exchange students did warn us to pick up a bit of Spanish before coming, but all I did was listen to podcasts on basic Spanish, and could only remember a couple of phrases. Thank god I had the rest of the months here to interact and learn the language, because I have gain so much more from my travels when I interact with the locals.
My favourite and only breakfast place in Oaxaca because of the vendors. They really brightened up my mornings!
The local painter who let my try painting my own piece, instead of simply buying one. We chatted in Spanish for the whole 3 hours, ahaha
One can probably survive with just English, or even hand gestures (I met a solo Chinese lady who spoke only Chinese and barely any English. I asked her how she got around, she said by pointing things out and making hand gestures. Wow). But had I not spoke with the locals, I would never have understood their way of life, their beliefs, their perspective of their country and foreigners.
Understanding some Spanish also helps a lot when you are getting around the town too. I had a couple of months to understand how most towns are built and how the transport system runs, but for travellers who don't have to luxury of time and money to make mistakes, knowing Spanish would be great to read signs, and ask for help from the locals. In my last 9 day solo trip, I was able to get myself out from tricky situations by asking for help, in Spanish, with the locals.
But I truly understand that this is a giant hurdle to cross, and one thing that really help was having translation apps. I found Yandex - Translate and Spanish Dict particularly helpful. Both apps works offline, so it doesn't require a data plan nor does it consume much of your phone battery. But for Yandex - Translate, one would need to download the Spanish - English package beforehand, to use it offline. Yandex is great for translating paragraphs of words, while Spanish Dict is great for one to practice and learn Spanish, with different conjugations neatly listed and vocab game.
2. Transport
Travelling between states/towns
One can probably choose between bus and flights when travelling around Mexico. But usually when the bus journey is not longer than 6 hours, it would be easier to travel to the next state by bus. The longest bus ride I've taken here is a 10 hours one from Puebla to Chiapas. I don't think I ever want to experience that again.
The main bus companies here in Mexico are ADO, AU, Estrella Blanca Group, ODO, and Mayab/Oriente. The Estrelle Blanca Group is a group of high end to second class bus companies and generally serves the central - southern regions. ODO serves the mid west regions. ADO and AU pretty much goes to all parts of Mexico, but the tickets are usually more expensive. Mayab and Oriente serves the Quintana Roo and Yucatan regions and is a cheaper option to ADO and AU.
Bus schedule at Xpujil. The timings were pathetically little, I wanted to cry. This was also the reason why I only reached Tulum at 3am that night and ended up sleeping at the bus station.
But Quintana Roo and Yucatan is also known for their collectivo services, which is by far the cheapest option. Collectivos runs in small vans, and depending on the town, the collectivo might run more frequently than ADO/AU. Their services generally only extends to towns not located more than 3 hours apart, and typically does not run late into the night. It is a bus service generally aimed at providing the locals with a cheaper transport option, and can be an advantage to tourists.
Collectivos are typically small buses like these stating which 2 towns they travel between. This is a collectivo we took in Apizaco, Tlaxcala
Inside of a collectivo
In purchasing the bus tickets, the normal practice is to arrive at the station no more than an hour you would like to depart at and purchase it on the spot. Whenever I plan for a trip, the first step I would do, search for the costs online and find the cheapest bus company. Then, I would check the number of hours it takes to journey to the destination and plan backwards. I would also check for the departure timings online, so as to arrive at the station with just enough time to purchase the ticket and grab some snacks. However, one should note that the costs and timings might not be the most updated and changes should be anticipated. Often I would arrive at the bus station and inquire for the prices at other companies regardless, to ensure that I am getting the cheapest deal.
I usually take the overnight bus for long journeys. But for short journeys like this one, the scenery can be particularly beautiful and I thoroughly enjoyed my return journey from Zacatlan when I got the seat just at the door, beside the driver.
Check out the view I got!
For travellers who can afford to pay a little more, and prefer a more comfortable ride, the most comfortable bus service I've enjoyed thus far is Futura primera. Every passenger gets a bag of snacks, a choice of beverage, an inflatable pillow and their own TV screen at their seat. No more straining to watch the shared TV screens most second class buses have.
At the bus station, it is often confusing and flustering to deal with the crowd, the doubts and directions. I would recommend every traveller to do their research like what I've mentioned above and always remember to double check all these information, price, duration and time when purchasing the tickets. Also, enquire about where to board the bus, and be there at least 15 mins before. Some buses arrives early and leaves at the stated time, while others arrives only at the stated time. In addition, the tickets usually does not provide the vehicle plate number, so it might be hard to identify which bus you are supposed to board. Always ask the officers at the gate for help when you are in doubt. It is better to be annoying and ask the same person 10 times, than to miss your bus.
CAPU, main bus station in Puebla
When boarding, some stations will check your bags, so do look out for the queue. Luggages can also be stowed below the bus, and this is usually with the assistance of the station crew who would attach a tag to your luggage, which you will have to keep to claim it when alighting. Most importantly, check with the conductor, when to alight! Often, the places that you are travelling to might not be the final stop for the bus. Therefore, always be alert and check your offline map for your location when you know the duration for the trip is almost up. This is especially important when you're taking a overnight bus and you need to sleep.
Travelling within the town
When getting around town, the most common type of transport are local buses, taxis and metros.
Generally, I don't use much of the local buses when I'm exploring a city, cos most places can be reached by foot. But they are especially useful when I need to get to my hostel from the inter state bus stations or airport, or vice versa. Buses in Mexico are pretty chaotic for unfamiliar travellers. Usually the places they pass by would be written on the front window of the bus, and these buses can stop anywhere and pick up passengers from anywhere. However, each route generally have an informal bus stop which only the locals and driver know, and that is the hard part. When in doubt, always always ask the driver. These buses usually costs no more than $10 pesos and one has to pay when boarding. Don't worry about getting an exact change, most drivers have rows of change available just beside the steering wheel and it is common for them to find you your change while driving.
See the change placed neatly at the wooden box, beside the steering wheel?
Occasionally there are buskers that performs on the bus too. Otherwise, the driver is always playing their favourite music
Next, taxis. Almost no taxis here run by the meter. You should always ask the driver for the price before getting into the cab, and negotiate beforehand, if you think it is too pricey. Only hop in when you have decided on the price, and make sure you have exact change for it, whenever possible. There were many times where I've met drivers who claim that they have no change for your $100 note and you end up paying more than what was quoted at the start. An alternative to taxis would be Uber. Uber is generally slightly cheaper and definitely alot safer and more comfortable than the local taxis. However, do look out for drivers who tend to drive slow to hike up more earnings, as the final cost of the trip is determined by both the distance travelled and the time taken. But not all cities have Uber running yet, but right now, they can be found in major cities like Mexico City, Guadalajara, and Puebla.
I was particularly annoyed at this driver who really took his time
A ticket costs only $5 pesos. You insert it at the slot when entering and the machine will take the ticket. Upon exit, you simply have to pass through the gate without any ticket again.
Some stations also have little exhibits along the corridors when changing from one line to another
There is nothing separating the passengers on the platform from the metro, except the yellow line. But don't stand too far away, sometimes you need to be near enough to squeeze in with the crowd!
I can't believe these two topics alone took up so much. Part 2 of the guide should feature - Places to go, accommodations, and food options!
