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Which came first? - Dia de Muertos or Halloween
Monday, November 09, 2015The first weekend of November is only the coolest one I've spent in Mexico. 31 October was halloween, 1 and 2 November was Dia de Muertos (Day of the Dead), and this meant lots of festivities and celebrations in Mexico.
A little info about Dia de Muertos - it's alot like 清明 in Singapore, where families visit the tombs to give offerings and clean up. But many families also set up altars at home, decorated with the deceased favourite things, because it is believed that the spirits returns on this day. 1 November is for adults while 2 November is for kids. And the families that sets up these altars would lay a trail of orange flowers from outside the house to the altar, meant to guide the spirits home.
Decal on the local bus! Even the local buses participates in the festivities!
One of the many ofrendas found in Puebla's Zocalo
Most people would head for Oaxaca or Michoacan for Dia de Muertos, because these states are known for their celebrations and traditions, but I chose to spend in Puebla instead, and I don't think my experience was any less.
On 30 October, I visited the Zocalo of Puebla where altars were set up in government buildings and museums arounds town. It was fun to see these grand altars and all the creative thought people put into these altars. I also took the chance to paint half my face like St. Catarina, the God that believed to preside over the festivities. And it was great fun to walk around town, basking in the atmosphere.
I can't get enough of those overhead banners. They carve different designs into these papers for different occasions and hang it over streets and everywhere hangable
This altar had 'guards' as part of their altar. Kudos!
I love how the altar just fits so nicely with the stained glass of this government building
Aren't they amazing?! This is just like the rice design indians have during deepavali!
And this museum housed over 55 altars, with other stalls selling ofrendas, sweets and this was where I found the face painting stall
It's weird how mexicans have such a liking towards these skull symbols when most people from other countries would avoid it. I especially like how the culture highlights the beauty of it by painting and creating funny and cute characters out of these skeletons. If I could, I would bring all of them home <3
And this one had a live DJ, spinning the tracks, dedicating it all to the deceased musicians
Honouring deceases mariachis!
It's cool how they dress up the fountains too
And a zombie parade!! It was hosted by the local make up school and some of the make up are really quite horrifying (in the halloween appropriate way)
And the local artists completing a street art for Dia de Muertos
The night was then spent at a Halloween party, which we decided to leave early, because the music was bad, and there was just way too many people.
I didn't want to spend too much money, so i bought a bandana and the guys gave me the eye patch and tada!
On 31 October, I took a trip to Atlixco to view the famous floral carpet - a showcase where flowers are put together to form images just for Dia de Muertos. And there happened to be a huge market too, selling foods, ofrendas and many other stuff. I love these street markets <3 The rest of the day was spent exploring Atlixco, and eventually I left around 5pm.
Look at these cute like lambs! And they are all candies <3
These minatures fruits and vegetables too.
And these candy cakes and skull. I feel like creating an altar just to buy and display all these dulces.
Can you see what images the flowers form?
Viewing deck - this is absolutely free!
The zocalo itself has a unique vibe to it as well
Wished my mum was here to share the moment. I would probably be annoyed by the amount of photos she would request for, but I still want her to see this <3
The color scheme of this altar is so pretty!
Wander into this church that is completely bare except all these paper cut outs that is meant for a festival next weekend.
I wonder where they get so many volunteers to do all these o.o
The exterior of this church just reminds me of playdoh ahaha
And then I climbed to the highest point in Atlixco (Y)
Atlixco just has this vintage, abandoned feel to it and the cloudy weather that day just adds to the Dia de Muertos atmosphere
Idk if it is coordinated, but this street was lined with these beautiful red flowers, that is oh-so-romantic
This was only $12 pesos ($1.20 SGD), and it has potatos, rice and chorizo. Is this cheap, or is this cheap.
A photography exhibit of Dia de Muertos. Wished I saw this live though. But the markets were indeed selling these incense and they were surprisingly not choking and rather fragrant.
To get home, I need to take 2 buses. Unfortunately, the first bus broke down on the way, in the middle of the highway. It took 3 buses before I managed to squeeze on and by then it was already dark. The second bus had to be taken from a stop at an overhead bridge, and I was slightly panicking because I wasn't 100% sure the bus would stop there and there was barely any street lights. Thankfully the stranger I asked volunteered to wait with me, at the expense of missing his own bus twice. When I asked why he would do that, he said it was because I was all alone in another country, and that's the least he could do to help. I cried internally, mexicans can be so warm and nice <3
The bus broke down just as the sun was setting. I waited past the sunset though, when it turned cold and windy ):
I was the last group of people to get on the last bus. The rest of the bus managed to squeeze onto the next 2 buses that came ):
On the actual Dia de Muertos on 1 November, I travelled to Chignahuapan, to catch the festival of light and life. From CAPU, the bus costs $120 pesos and takes a little less than 3 hours to get to the town. The view from the bus ride was so nice. Chignahuapan is located at a slightly higher altitude and latitude and the weather happened to be cold that day. As such, mist was forming and I felt like I was taken to a totally different landscape.
In addition, Chignahuapan is famous for its production of the christmas spheres. Just before Dia de Muertos was a Christmas spheres festival organised to attract tourist to the town to purchase their Christmas decorations. Thus the whole town looks like its in the midst of December when I arrived, with a giant christmas tree placed in the center of the Zocalo. It was wonderful <3 I spent the whole afternoon inspecting Christmas spheres before joining the parade at night.
Look at all that mist!
Check out my new hat. This is after losing 2 of my favourite caps ):
Despite the mist, I could surprisingly still survive with one sweater on the outside. Until the rain started, that is.
Every shop was selling christmas ornaments
And they are all so pretty <3 I have never seen anything like this in Singapore
This church is so different from the other ones that I have been to. It feels almost cult-like.
It really is Christmas already.
And the zocalo is just so beautiful when it was lighted up at night
At 7pm, everyone gathered at the starting point of the parade and torches were lighted and given out to the crowd. By 7.30pm, most of the people were already walking towards the lake where the performance was held, accompanied by the actors of the show.
However, the show only started at 8.00pm because of the rain, and thankfully it didn't spoil the lighting or any special effects the show had. And for the next 1 hour, I squeezed with the crowd on the stands and watched the magic and fireworks erupt.
Look at all the crowd! I was lucky enough to find a spot on the stands, else I doubt I would have seen much of the show that night. Lots of the people that were on the ground started standing on chairs halfway through and I was totally surprised when the crowds behind started yelling and cheering for them to get down, openly expressing their annoyance. In Singapore we would probably complain to our friends next to us, but never shout at the other person. It is effective though, ahaha.
Idk what paint the use, but with different lighting the pyramid just seems to change colours.
This is epic. The epic finale. And I still can't believe this is free.
So I was supposed to meet a friend from frisbee that stayed in the town nearby, before the show. But he was picking up some friends and was late instead. We texted to meet after, but his phone died and I was kind of left stranded. The survivor in me then kicked in, and I first tried to find a bus back to Puebla. Nope. From my research before the trip, I also knew there was no hotel rooms left in Chignahuapan. So I tried to ask for a couch. And it worked in the first hotel. The little bit of spanish I knew was enough to convince them to take me, a solo female traveller who couldn't contact her mexican friend, to take me into their private house beside the hotel and sleep on their couch. Fortunately, my friend got his phone charged and contacted me an hour later, and soon I was on the way to a birthday party with his friends. But nonetheless, I am so so thankful for that family for taking me <3
The birthday party was a different thing altogether. It turned out to be a rather small and bright party in a very big venue. It took awhile to get things going, but eventually I ended up having the most delicious tacos ever. I thought I was eating meat fillings until someone told me it's mock meat. Regardless, it was d-e-l-i-c-i-o-u-s. And of course there was beer, and salsa dancing. All mexican parties have salsa dancing. But problem is, I can't dance for nuts, and there so happened to be a friend that couldn't dance too. So we ended spinning around aimlessly together. And that was my first salsa dance at a Mexican party. Yay. Overall, it turned out to be a pretty unexpected, but nice evening.
The next day, on 2 November, we went around town. We started with breakfast, and then visiting the cemetry, mirador, mosaic walls and other parts of town, before I finally had to return back to Puebla.
I had so much fun with Sergio and Hector, I really want to return to Zacatlan again
In the cemetry. This is the only I visited during the Dia de Muertos period, and I witnessed families singing to the tomb, cleaning and just having a family gathering in this small space. Many of the tombs were located in small like closed houses as well, unlike this one.
Zacatlan is a town on the top of a mountain and as such, offers a view into the valleys below
The mosaic wall! There are lots of apple motifs because that is what Zacatlan is famous for. Each section of the wall is actually painstakingly done up by the locals. Hector explained that he did one of the trees found on the wall and it took months. The locals were asked to submit their designs and people who's design got picked got to place it up on the wall. Nonetheless, they concluded that it was alot of fun.
Visited the clock factory/museum, that created the flower clock found in the zocalo of Zacatlan. Who needs to go to Zurich to see this?
So, on the way back to Puebla I got the last seat left, right in front with the driver. And that entitled me to the most beautiful road trip view ever. Even if it meant no seat recline.
The answer to the title can probably be found here: http://www.exclusivaspuebla.com.mx/dia-de-muertos-vs-halloween-el-origen-de-ambas-tradiciones/
And I found most of these activities for the weekend through: https://www.facebook.com/PueblaTravel/?fref=ts
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